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Must a living thing have a eyes to have a soul? Does a wave, however transitory, have a soul? Considering that a wave is a powerful band of energy moving through a living medium, it could be so. Our souls are mere thoughts moving across the living medium of our minds. So it could be so. Perhaps that is what we feel when we surf that perfect session. Or that secret session. Or that big session. Or that sunrise session. Or that Sunset session. That feeling. Of belonging, mixed with a physical synchronicity with nature.

Surely there is something solemn in that. This issue’s theme is dedicated to not only one of the best runs of swell in years, but to the men and women who met these swells and rode them and photographed them with soul. To the revered rituals of analyzing and prepping and finally, deciding where to meet these swells. From the most far flung locations in our archipelago to the ones in our own backyard. In this issue we bring you a number of what we call Sacred sessions. You might have noticed that Surftime has peppered the magazine with a few of these sessions in the last five years.

With our exclusive story from G-land about the Hobgood twins surfing a private session there we are up to Sacred Session #12 now. Our opener, a story told to us by Rip Curl’s Pete Matthews from the front seat of his car, is about a run to Desert point with Shawn Briley, Mason Ho, Kalani Chapman and Chris Ward. And it’s a fun read, no matter how deadly the conditions were. Recently, Photographer Everton Luis led a homegrown session in a Bukit Backyard. But even though it is at the Bukit’s most popular spot, he somehow makes it look different. And thanks to the generosity of Jason Seabourne and his Mentawai operation, the winners of the Bingin Contest, Agus Dag Sumertayasa and Mega Artana were awarded an all expense paid trip to perfect waves off Sumatra.

It turned into a truly sacred series of sessions when all their friends pitched in came along, making it a very rare all-Indonesian Mentawai trip. The karma held and they scored absolute perfection. Even more so when they went ashore to deliver school supplies to the local village children. All smiles that one, number #11. And with Damea Dorsey’s latest portfolio, he takes us inside his private sessions with stars Bruce Irons, Taj Burrow, Andre Anwar and Lee Wilson. A series of spreads that not only serves as an example of how good our waves are, but of how perfectly they are ridden.

That is the thing about Indonesia, not one wave goes to waste when the best are present. And we are very happy to see the return of Liquid Barrel’s photography. A fine art portfolio of sacred moments from just about everywhere. So Surftime is once again proud to bring you these hallowed moments. Because surfers, more than most inhabitants of this planet, give everything to make our lives as beautiful as the dreams that dance in our imaginations. So enjoy this month’s sacred sessions. And Keep dancing.

– Editor –

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